Stone Mountain Clay & Glaze Co.

4744F North Royal Atlanta Drive
Tucker, GA  30084
PHONE (770) 986-9011 / FAX (404) 492-7190
Yes, we are open to the public! 

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Q: How can I eliminate those small "pinhole" bubbles in my glaze? There are a few things you can do to prevent those pesky little bubbles on your finished piece:
1. Rinse your bisqueware under the faucet, inside and out, several minutes before applying glaze. This eliminates any dust, lint, etc. on your piece that can cause pinholes to form. This also hydrates the clay so that it will absorb a more even amount of glaze, making application and adhesion much easier and smoother.
2. After your glaze dries completely, lightly rub your fingertip over the glaze surface and "finger-sand' any bubbles. This will create a little dust, so we recommend you do it outdoors or in a well-ventilated area (over a trash can!).

Q: Sometimes when I apply glaze, no matter how much glaze I keep adding-it doesn't seem to want to stick around the rims/edges. Then it fires and the glaze crawls away from those areas. What's going on? Usually, if your glaze doesn't want to adhere all over the pot your clay may be over-saturated, be sure to allow sufficient drying time between glaze coats. The best thing you can do is just set the pot down in front of a fan and walk away for a while. Let the pot dry for 10-15 minutes and try again. This is often the case when applying the second or third brushed coat, or when trying to glaze the inside of the pot after glazing the full outside. If you're not sure if that is what's happening with your piece, touch the exposed clay on the bottom of your pot. If it feels cold to the touch-the pot is very wet. If the clay is over-saturated, it will not absorb any more glaze. Try to fire it that way and you will end up with a very inconsistent glaze surface. **Please keep in mind that drying time often varies from glaze to glaze, and that glaze will dry considerably slower when it is humid.
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